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Admitting defeat

I pride myself in being the mistress of the grill in our house. Steak, chops, burgers, and brats all are within my domain, not Gavin’s. He has no shortage of opinions about how he wants things grilled, but still usually leaves the job up to me. When it was time to upgrade our grill, about four years ago, that job was mine too.

I researched grills online and in my favorite food magazines. When it came down to the best grill for our money, the Weber Genesis won out. It had stainless-steel grates, three burners and 40,000 BTUs. This baby was exactly what I wanted. Gavin questioned my decision to not get a side-burner, but I was quick to ask, “Who uses those things anyways?” I didn’t think I would. I didn’t have marinades simmering alongside while I grilled. I couldn’t imagine boiling corn outside when we had a perfectly good stove inside.

Fast-forward to today. It’s warm and sunny, and Seattleites are enjoying being on the water, camping trips, outdoor concerts, and more. We, on the other hand, are still up to our eyeballs in the remodel of our home. We are living in the basement, surrounded by boxes of our junk, using our laundry room as a makeshift kitchen and our grill on nights when it’s actually warm enough outside. Cooking is otherwise almost non-existent since it isn’t very appetizing in our dark, dusty, cramped basement.

On the menu for tonight – and probably the next several nights – are bratwurst. They’re cheap, easy, salty, and satisfying. The thing is, we like to boil our brats in bath of beer and onions prior to grilling. Boil. In a pot. On a burner. I’ve tried to deny it before – that a side-burner would have been a nice thing to have on our grill. I’ve pulled a one-burner unit out on the deck to steam oysters – but still didn’t admit defeat. In the last several weeks, we’ve boiled pasta on that unit as well.

But tonight, I’m feeling weak. I give up. I can’t deny it anymore. I made a mistake. I should have bought a grill with a sideburner.

Oh, inverted world

I’ve been researching (read: drinking) some new vermouth and other fortified wines lately. I wrote a piece for my Seattle Weekly column with some of my findings, and have continued to taste and try other brands. One of my longtime favorites is Dolin. Last summer I went through quite a bit of the Dolin Blanc, which is tasty and refreshing with some soda water and a dash of bitters or a twist. Lillet Blanc over ice with a slice of orange was another summertime favorite.

This summer hasn’t exactly been the summer to lounge on the deck in the late afternoon sun sipping long drinks. There have been maybe three balmy evenings where we wanted a cold, light and refreshing cocktail. Most of the time, we’ve wanted something a bit more boozy. Something flavorful and rich, but not too heavy on the alcohol. Enter the inverted cocktail.

I’d heard about inverted Martinis and Manhattans before. You just take the normal ratio (2 parts spirits to 1 part vermouth) and invert it. Nathan Weber, who bartends around town, was at Rob Roy when I stopped in there a couple of weeks ago. I was working on a different Seattle Weekly column I sometimes write. Nathan and I got to chatting about vermouth. He’s a big fan of Dolin as well and loves to just drink it straight. He’s also a fan of inverted Martinis and Manhattans.  I had an inverted Martini  there with Gordon’s gin, Dolin dry vermouth and a couple of dashes of bitters. Served up with a twist, it’s more thirst quenching than a traditional Martini, and less likely to get you tanked. Well, that depends on how many you drink I suppose….

I’ve long been a fan of Manhattans. I love them and all their variations, particularly when they are made using interesting vermouths like Carpano Antica or Punt e Mes. I met friends for happy hour at Lot No. 3 in Bellevue last week. This bar is known for its “build your own Manhattan” menu. After talking a bit to the bartender about vermouth, he pulled out a bottle of Cocchi Torino. This is said to be the original recipe of Italian vermouth first produced in 1891. It’s spicy and rich, with a clove, citrus and nutmeg aroma. He used it to make me an inverted Manhattan with Old Overholt rye. It was nutty and complex, thought not exactly refreshing. It was perfect for a grey and rainy Seattle summer day.

In 2008, Pyramid Breweries renamed their Hefeweizen beer – a company staple since it was introduced in 1993  - to Haywire. After nearly three years with the new name, they have finally admitted they hefe’d up. “Moving away from the tradition that made us great was a mistake,” said Ryan Daley, brand manager for Pyramid. The change was made to differentiate Pyramid from other Hefeweizen brands on the shelves. While the beer in the bottle remained unchanged from the original 1993 recipe, the name change adversely affected sales.

Founded in 1984 in Kalama WA, Pyramid Breweries began as Hart Brewing Co. and brewed some of the country’s first microbrews. In 1996, the company was renamed Pyramid, after Hart’s flagship brand of Pyramid Ales. Pyramid Breweries was acquired by Independent Brewers United in 2008, which was acquired by North American Breweries, headquartered in Rochester, NY, in 2010. Pyramid operates alehouses in Portland, Berkeley, Walnut Creek, Sacramento, and Seattle.

Seattle’s Pyramid Alehouse, popular thanks to its location next to Safeco Field, will begin brewing beer again onsite later this year. They haven’t brewed at that location since 2008, when it was more or less mothballed due to its relatively small, 15-barrel capacity. Beer is now brewed at the company’s facilities in Portland and Berkeley. Lead brewer Ryan Pappe, sees the smaller capacity at the Seattle brewery as a positive. He’s enthusiastic about the possibility for more experimentation with ingredients like dry hops and chocolate, and barrel aging. He brews at the company’s Portland brewery, which has a capacity of 160 barrels. They brew half batches of some of Pyramid’s seasonal beers in Portland, but as Pappe said, “even a half batch is a lot of beer.”

In preparation for renewed brewing in Seattle, Pyramid has posted a job for an Alehouse Brewer. In addition to brewing, the Seattle brewer will be a brand “Alebassador,” or ambassador, for the community. Prospective applicants need the ability to work a flexible schedule, because “making beer is not a 9-5 sort of thing.”

Looking ahead to 2012, Pyramid is hoping to add more seasonal beers, like Snowcap Ale, which celebrates the 25th anniversary of its creation this year. The company also plans to add more variety to its variety packs, and continue to offer alehouse exclusives like its Ignition Series. Beers in the Ignition Series include Discord, a dark IPA available August through October, and Live Wire, an Imperial Hefeweizen, available at the Seattle alehouse now.

A Fond Farewell

I loved everything about our first kitchen in the beginning. The maple butcher-block countertops, the cream-colored side-by-side refrigerator, even the country-kitchen style cabinets, with their dark wood veneer. It was our first kitchen together. In our first home together, and I knew it would be the start of something very special.

For twelve years, the old kitchen served us well. In it, we learned how to roll pasta, render lard, carve turkeys, and make everything from soups and stews, to pan sauces and poached eggs. I learned how to make custard and curds in that kitchen, and how to fix a broken Bernaise sauce. We cooked weekly, and later monthly, “Soup Night” meals for groups of 5 to 25 friends. We made marshmallows, hamburger buns, pizza and bread. We canned jam and pickles, made bitters and sipped bourbon. All in that old kitchen.

There were lots of hits, and plenty of misses along the way, some of them leaving a permanent mark on the kitchen. The old refrigerator started to leak, leaving behind water damage in the wood laminate flooring. Once, when brewing beer with my late-brother Jon, we boiled over a batch of wort on the stovetop, leaving it forever sticky and stained. The butcher-block countertops got nicked, banged-up and burned. They could easily be sanded down and treated with mineral oil to look new again, but we liked the rings left behind by the many bottles of red wine we enjoyed in that old kitchen.

As the years went by, we slowly replaced the old fridge, the old stove and the old dishwasher. We never invested a lot in these upgrades, knowing we’d someday remodel. Our next kitchen, we thought, will have better countertops, modern cabinets and appliances as top-of-the-line as we could afford. We continued to become better cooks, almost smug in the fact that we were better cooks than most people, despite our old, beat-down kitchen.

When we started this remodel project, there wasn’t anything about the old kitchen we thought we’d miss. We took down and dismantled the old cabinets. Four layers of old flooring were removed and the old butcher-block countertops were taken out. We replaced the wiring, plumbing and several studs. As I write this, our old kitchen is a shell of its former self. An empty room, a blank canvas, ready…for our new kitchen.

The new kitchen won’t have loose kick plates under the cabinets, wasted storage space behind the sink, or holes in the wall that we need to strategically cover up with framed prints. It won’t have a microwave over the stove, with a too-weak fan that causes food smells – and sometimes smoke – to fill the house. The new kitchen won’t have fluorescent under-cabinet lighting that casts an eerie, peach-colored glow, or a dishwasher that sounds like a jet engine taking off. But it won’t have cabinet door handles perfect for pinning up a recipe card or printouts either. And it won’t have the scars and stains of cooking successes and failures either.

The new kitchen won’t have kitchen cabinets above the stove, but will have a hood, a hanging rack and open shelving. It will have a counter-depth fridge, with ice and water in the door. The new kitchen will have cabinets and appliances from Sweden, and a custom double bowl stainless steel sink with a built-in drainboard. It will have countertops impervious to stains, even though we’ve saved the old countertops and may repurpose a section as a pastry/pasta board.

And best of all, the new kitchen will have us. And we are ready to cook.

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